Republic Day in Chennai: Observations from the Barricades

The rain had stopped by 6am this Republic Day morning in Chennai, but perhaps the earlier downpour caused some of the delays that seemed to ripple through the parade. This was only my second or third time attending the celebrations marking the day India's Constitution came into effect in 1950, transforming the country into a sovereign democratic republic. At around 145,000 words, it remains the world's longest written constitution of any sovereign nation - a detail that feels particularly apt given the sprawling complexity of the country it governs. But the energy felt notably more subdued than I remembered.

Chief Minister Stalin's face looked out from seemingly every vantage point - banners, posters, backdrops - a reminder that Republic Day celebrations, for all their national symbolism, are also deeply local and political affairs.

What struck me most wasn't what was there, but what was harder to access. Security has been tightening at public events across Chennai - sporting matches, cultural festivals, and now Republic Day. As someone who documents these occasions with camera in hand, I've noticed the gradual constriction of movement and access. The informal spaces where photographers could roam more freely are disappearing, replaced by cordoned zones and checkpoint scrutiny.

Meanwhile, VIP vehicles tore up the side lanes at alarming speeds - late arrivals? Intentional displays of privilege? Hard to say, but jarring nonetheless against the disciplined precision of the marching bands and mounted cavalry passing by at ceremonial pace.

Still, there were moments worth savouring: the truly magnificent military moustaches on display, worn with evident pride. The intergenerational nature of it all - teenage musicians in their band uniforms, elderly veterans standing at attention, cavalry officers on horseback maintaining centuries-old traditions.

Republic Day remains a lens into how India sees itself, celebrates itself, and organises itself. Rain or shine.

Republic Day, Chennai, 2023

Celebrating Ganesha: A Tale of Three Names

As late August or early September arrives, a vibrant energy fills the air as millions prepare to welcome the beloved elephant-headed deity into their homes and communities. But depending on where you are, you might hear this lively celebration called Ganesh Chaturthi, Vinayaka Chaturthi, or Pillayar Chaturthi. Each name, in its own way, tells a fascinating story about India's linguistic diversity and how the same beloved festival adapts to different cultural landscapes.

While Ganesh Chaturthi uses the most common Sanskrit name and has become a pan-Indian standard, you'll often hear it called Vinayaka Chaturthi in South India's Telugu and Kannada-speaking regions. This name employs another Sanskrit title for the god, meaning "supreme leader."

Perhaps the most endearing perspective comes from the Tamil name, Pillayar Chaturthi. Calling the mighty remover of obstacles simply "noble child" or "young master," this affectionate term reflects Tamil culture's intimate relationship with their deities, treating even the most powerful gods as beloved family members. The three names, though different, all capture this authentic devotion that transcends language barriers.

Patinapakkam Beach, Chennai

Hanging out with the Marxists

Labour Day represents one of our truly global celebrations, connecting workers across continents despite different observance dates. While North Americans mark the occasion in September, much of the world—including here in Chennai—celebrates on May 1st, honouring the worldwide struggle for workers' rights and dignity.

I recently attended Chennai's Labour Day celebrations, camera in hand, to document this vibrant tradition. The atmosphere was remarkably relaxed and often jovial, despite the serious historical significance of the day. Passionate speeches echoed through the gathering, interspersed with spirited singing and organised marching—all creating perfect photographic moments against the city's backdrop.

Perhaps most interesting was learning that a local socialist group had recently received permission to erect Chennai's first statue of Karl Marx—a notable cultural milestone for the city and a testament to the ongoing relevance of labour movement history.

The Triumph of Labour, Chennai, 2025

"The Triumph of Labour," Chennai's iconic bronze statue at Marina Beach, stands as a powerful symbol of workers' unity and resilience, depicting four men collaboratively moving a massive rock. Created by renowned artist D.P. Roy Chowdhury, who served as the first Indian principal of the Government Madras School of Arts and Crafts, this landmark monument was unveiled on January 25, 1959, by then-Governor Bishnuram Medhi in the presence of Chief Minister K. Kamaraj, whose government commissioned it as part of a beach beautification initiative. The statue commemorates India's first May Day rally held at this location in 1923, when labour leader M. Singaravelar advocated for workers' rights.

Girivalam at Arunachala

It's been four months since my last photo update. During this time, I've traveled far and wide across India, including the Maha Kumbh Mela in Prayagraj (Allahabad), collecting numerous photos to review and develop. This weekend I'm in Tiruvannamalai, Tamil Nadu for the Girivalam - a 14km clockwise walk around Mount Arunachala during the full moon, considered an auspicious time for this pilgrimage. Mount Arunachala is believed to be the physical manifestation of Lord Shiva in Hindu tradition. Incredible positive energy witnessed, dedication and devotion everywhere. Lots of folks were clearly pushing through the pain barrier to 'have their questions answered'. This morning my body is aching and my feet are blistered, but I'm already planning a return trip in June.

Pilgrims to the Big Temple

On my scooter ride around Thanjavur (Tanjore), two pilgrims in orange robes flagged me down, smiling and pointing to my phone. We all understood immediately what this was - just people wanting to capture a moment. There was that nice, clear understanding between us: no money talk, no transaction, just a simple photo together. One click, some smiles, and we parted ways - them to Brihadishvara Temple, me on my scooter. Clean and simple, the way some travel moments should be.

Visiting Madras Race Club for the first time

A fun hot afternoon at the legendary Madras Race Club. With races scheduled for every Saturday till January and probably beyond I’m already looking forward to my next visit. A very laid back atmosphere compared to other sporting events I’ve been at here in India.